Our day started and ended in the hipster-esque neighborhood of our Airbnb, 12 South. It is a revival neighborhood; they took a cheap, dilapidated, dangerous part of town and made everything safer and super expensive. Houses that went for 100,000$ a few years ago now cost 700,000$.
The Frothy Monkey offers breakfast and coffee. After our breakfast bun (me) and ham and cheese omelette (guess) we scheduled an Uber to take us to Andrew Jackson's Hermitage (just 20 minutes outside of town).
There are several parts to the Hermitage, the museum covers the history of the War 1812 and Andrew Jackson's fame that came from his part in the war. According to the Hermitage website, "having proved himself a brilliant tactician and strategist with a no-fear attitude, America loved Jackson." The museum focused on his life as an orphan, along with his indecent marriage to his beloved wife, Rachel (she was still officially married to someone else when they got married...heavens to Betsy).
Andrew Jackson and Rachel named their 1,000 acre plantation, the Hermitage (which sounds much more pleasant). Jackson lived here before and after his presidency. At one time there were 150 slaves that lived and worked on his plantation. He was known as the President of the People, but he believed that it was his right to have slaves since he could afford them.
The Jackson's treated their slaves well (in comparison to other slave owners), they didn't sell the children of families, they bought families instead of individuals, they didn't get rid of slaves who were too sick or too old to work (as long as their families cared for them), they gave their slaves medicine, they were permitted a day off a week, and they were allowed to hunt food (and were given access to weapons).
The smoke room.
We took a carriage ride around the property. You can walk it, but it was hot and dusty.
I have never seen cotton growing before, when the hard seed opens up four giant cotton balls emerge.
These are some of the objects found when excavating the plantation.
The metal fork on the left is a simple harp.
Uncle Alfred was born at the Hermitage, and eventually became Jackson's personal slave. He lived in this cabin, very close to the mansion unlike the other slave cabins.
After Andrew Jackson died the Hermitage was opened to the public.
Uncle Alfred was the first official docent, and would let you take a picture with him for 20$.
Rachel loved her garden.
Next we ubered to Tennessee Brew Works, where we tried all of their ten beers on tap, and had lunch.
I could see us coming back to Tennessee so Eric could have just one bite of this burger. It is one of the best he has ever had in his life, the Five Beer burger (a short rib burger that has a different one of their beers in each ingredient, the cheese, the pickles, the onions, the sauce, and the bun).
My grilled cheese was good too! It had pecans and apple butter.
From the brewery we braved the heat and walked around the city. Apparently we brought San Diego weather with us.
I love this picture.
Broadway is so crazy, look at this three story Honkey-tonk, packed with people in the early afternoon. Nashville is like a mini Las Vegas, the revelry never stops.
Created in in Nashville in 1912, the Goo Goo Cluster shop gives out free samples! We tried their spicy Goo Goo.
We made our way back to 12 South, for the most expensive Mexican Popsicle ever... 75 pesos to be exact.
In the public park sits a building built in 1852.
The house existed on the border of Confederate and Union lines, in the Battle of Nashville (1864).
The Filling Station will let you fill up any growler you want (we have laws against this in California). But they are not allowed to sell beer over 6% ABV, unless the brewery has an liquor licence...
I much prefer our 10% IPAs...
Here is an example of the revival neighborhood, the facade of the building still stands, but inside there are fancy pants sold here.
Nashville has gorgeous buildings, a ton of history, and wonderful food and beer... with live music.
Best 40th birthday present ever? Quite possibly...